Red Ruby Guide

Ruby is the red variety of corundum, the same mineral family as sapphire. Its red colour is primarily caused by trace amounts of chromium within the crystal.

Corundum occurs naturally in several colours. Red material is classified as ruby, while blue, pink, yellow and other colours are generally classified as sapphire.

Ruby colour can range from bright red through to deeper red, sometimes with secondary purple, pink, orange or brown tones.

Natural rubies are found in several parts of the world, with Myanmar, Mozambique, Sri Lanka, Thailand and Madagascar among the best-known sources.

Ruby is also the traditional birthstone for July and is associated with the 15th and 40th wedding anniversaries.

Rubies don't have a standardised quality-grading system equivalent to diamonds.

Colour, clarity, cut and carat weight all matter, alongside treatment and origin - but for us:

Colour comes first.

Pigeon blood is a trade term associated with some of the most highly prized ruby colours.

Traditionally linked particularly closely with fine rubies from Myanmar, the term generally describes a vivid, strongly saturated red, sometimes with a subtle purplish character.

It's important not to treat pigeon blood as a simple universal colour grade. Different laboratories may apply their own criteria when using the term, and not every vivid red ruby will qualify.

For an important ruby represented as pigeon blood, we'd want that description supported by an appropriate independent gemological laboratory report.

It can - particularly for exceptional natural rubies - but:

Origin isn't a quality grade.

Many natural rubies available within the jewellery market have been heat treated to improve their colour and/or apparent clarity.

Heat treatment is an established practice within the gemstone trade.

Treatment isn't automatically a negative - proper disclosure is what matters.

Fine natural rubies that haven't undergone heat treatment can be significantly rarer and may command substantial premiums, particularly when they already possess exceptional colour.

Other treatments can also exist and may have a much greater effect on value, so we'd want to understand:

• Whether the ruby has been treated
• What treatment has been used
• Whether it has been properly disclosed
• Whether the treatment is appropriately reflected in its value

For an important natural ruby, treatment information is one of the reasons an independent gemological report can be particularly valuable.

Some rubies can display red fluorescence under ultraviolet light, particularly those containing chromium.

Fluorescence can sometimes contribute to the vivid, glowing red appearance associated with certain fine rubies, especially in lighting that contains ultraviolet wavelengths.

However, we'd never judge a ruby from fluorescence alone.

Colour, transparency, treatment, cut and the overall appearance of the individual stone remain much more important.

Both natural and laboratory-grown rubies are ruby.

Fergus James carefully sources natural rubies from Myanmar (Burma), home to some of the world's most celebrated ruby deposits.

Each stone is selected for its colour, transparency, character and overall beauty, rather than simply its origin or specifications.

Not every ruby will be accompanied by an independent gemological report, particularly smaller stones used within jewellery.

For significant natural rubies, however, a specialist laboratory report can provide important information such as:

• Whether the gemstone is natural or laboratory-grown
• Whether detectable treatments are present
• Its weight and measurements
• In certain cases, an opinion on geographic origin
• Depending on the laboratory and stone, recognised colour terminology

Certification becomes particularly valuable for important untreated rubies, stones represented as Burmese origin, or rubies sold with prestigious colour descriptions such as pigeon blood.

What a report can't tell you is whether you'll find that particular ruby beautiful.

Ruby and pink sapphire are extremely closely related because both are varieties of corundum, and chromium can contribute to the colour of both.

The distinction is primarily colour.

Ruby → Red colour range

Pink Sapphire → Pink colour range

At the boundary between an intense pink and a lighter red, classification isn't always as straightforward as it sounds.

For an important gemstone close to this boundary, professional gemological identification can therefore be useful.

Rubies are particularly sensitive to lighting.

A stone can appear bright and vivid in natural daylight but deeper and richer under warmer indoor lighting. This is why we wouldn't focus solely on how a ruby looks under jewellery showroom spotlights.

Two rubies with the same carat weight and origin can also look completely different because of differences in hue, tone, saturation, transparency, inclusions and cut.

When we're selecting a ruby, we want to see whether the red remains attractive across different lighting conditions and viewing angles.

Yes.

Ruby ranks 9 on the Mohs scale, making it one of the hardest natural gemstones and an excellent option for jewellery intended for frequent wear.

This makes ruby particularly well suited to engagement rings, where durability is an important consideration.

Like any gemstone, ruby isn't indestructible and can still be chipped or damaged by a significant impact.

The individual stone, setting and wearer's lifestyle should therefore still be considered.

Rubies work beautifully across many types of fine jewellery:

Engagement Rings · Eternity Rings · Earrings · Pendants · Bracelets

For rings, rubies work particularly well in solitaire, halo, three-stone and diamond-accented designs.

Colourless diamonds can create a particularly strong contrast with the rich red centre stone.

There's no universally best choice.

Rubies have traditionally been associated with love, passion, courage and strength, making them a meaningful choice for engagement rings, anniversaries and milestone gifts.

Ruby is also the July birthstone and is traditionally associated with the 15th and 40th wedding anniversaries.

Its intense red colour naturally lends itself to romantic symbolism, but we'd always recommend choosing a ruby primarily because you love the gemstone itself.

Ruby is highly durable, but fine jewellery still benefits from sensible care.

Remove ruby jewellery before:

• Exercising or playing sport
• Strenuous manual work
• Activities where it could receive a significant impact
• Using harsh chemicals

Store pieces separately to reduce unnecessary contact with other jewellery.

Warm water, mild soap and a soft brush may be suitable for many untreated or traditionally heat-treated rubies, but care requirements can differ depending on treatment and the overall jewellery design.

Frequently worn rings should also be periodically inspected for setting security.