Diamond Education

Diamond Pendants & Necklaces

How to choose the right pendant, diamond, chain and necklace length

Fergus James

Written by Fergus James

Founder & CEO

Diamond Pendants & Necklaces

A diamond pendant or necklace can be an understated everyday piece, a personalised gift or a statement design.

The right choice isn't only about the diamond. Pendant size, chain strength, necklace length, setting and how the complete piece sits when worn all matter.

Pendant or Necklace: What's the Difference?

A necklace is the complete piece of jewellery worn around the neck.

A pendant is a decorative element suspended from a chain, such as a diamond, gemstone, initial or personalised design.

A solitaire diamond pendant is therefore a type of necklace, while a tennis necklace features diamonds continuously around the neck without a central hanging pendant.

Key Takeaways

Choose the Complete Piece

The diamond, setting, chain and clasp need to work together. A beautiful pendant still needs the right chain and construction to sit securely and comfortably.

Look Beyond Carat Weight

Carat measures weight, not visible size. Diamond shape, dimensions and pendant design can make two diamonds of the same carat weight look very different.

Get the Length Right

Necklace length determines where the piece sits. Consider neck circumference, body proportions, pendant size and whether you'll layer it with other jewellery.

Choosing Your
Necklace Style

Style

Choosing Your
Necklace Style

Solitaire Diamond Pendant

Solitaire Diamond Pendant

A single diamond suspended from a fine 18k gold chain.

Simple, versatile and easy to wear regularly, with the diamond remaining the main focus.

Best for: Everyday wear · Timeless gifts · Understated jewellery

Diamond Tennis Necklace

Diamond Tennis Necklace

A continuous or near-continuous line of individually set diamonds.

The overall appearance depends on total carat weight, individual diamond size, matching and how consistently the diamonds sit around the neck.

Best for: Greater diamond presence · Layering · Statement jewellery

Diamond Choker

Diamond Choker

Diamonds cover the visible upper portion of the ring with plain metal underneath.

Correct sizing becomes particularly important because it should sit closely without feeling restrictive or moving excessively.

Personalised Necklaces

Personalised Necklaces

Fergus James creates English and Arabic letter pendants, English and Arabic name necklaces and constellation designs.

Lettering, diamonds, chain length and gold colour can be personalised around the wearer.

Fashion & Gemstone Pendants

Fashion & Gemstone Pendants

Diamonds, coloured gemstones, symbols and decorative designs can be used to create something more individual.

Fergus James also creates gold and Cuban-link chains in different lengths, widths and weights.

Choosing Your
Diamond Shape

Shape

Choosing Your
Diamond Shape

Diamond pendants can be created in almost any shape.

Round

Round

The classic choice, combining a symmetrical outline with strong brilliant-style sparkle.

Oval, Pear & Marquise

Oval, Pear & Marquise

Elongated shapes can provide greater visible spread for their carat weight and create a longer appearance when suspended vertically.

Emerald & Asscher

Emerald & Asscher

Step-cut facets create broader flashes of light and clean geometry. Their open faceting can also make inclusions easier to see, so we'd generally pay more attention to clarity.

Radiant, Princess & Cushion

Radiant, Princess & Cushion

Square or rectangular silhouettes with greater brilliant-style sparkle.

Heart

Heart

A distinctive and romantic option, particularly for sentimental gifts.

Fergus James Expert Insight

We wouldn't choose shape purely according to which appears largest.

How the shape works with the pendant design, setting and wearer's style matters more than maximising millimetres alone.

What Diamond Size Should You Choose?

There's no universally ideal size.

A smaller diamond on a fine chain creates a delicate appearance, while a larger diamond becomes much more of a focal point.

We'd consider:

Visible dimensions · Shape · Chain thickness · Setting · Wearer's proportions · Intended use · Budget

Most importantly, carat measures weight rather than visible size.

Two 1ct diamonds, for example, can have noticeably different face-up dimensions depending on their shape and proportions.

From Our Experience…

We'd look at individual diamond size and dimensions alongside total carat weight.

Particularly with Oval, Pear and Marquise diamonds, this gives you a much better understanding of how substantial the pendant will actually look.

Natural or
Lab-Grown Diamonds?

Diamond Specifications

Natural or
Lab-Grown Diamonds?

Fergus James offers both without preference towards either.

Natural

Natural diamonds are valued for their natural origin and rarity.

For natural diamond pendants, we'd typically consider:

G–H Colour · VS to carefully selected SI Clarity+

Lab-Grown

Lab-grown diamonds have the same fundamental crystal structure and physical properties as natural diamonds but differ in their origin, relative rarity and price.

We'd typically consider:

E–F Colour · VS Clarity+

Their lower price can allow you to choose a larger diamond or higher specifications within the same budget.

How Important Are the 4Cs?

The 4Cs - cut, colour, clarity and carat - all matter, but we'd prioritise the characteristics that create a meaningful visible difference.

For Round Brilliant diamonds, Fergus James prioritises Excellent or Ideal cut quality.

Fancy shapes are assessed individually because their proportions and visual performance aren't fully represented by a single overall cut grade.

Step cuts such as Emerald and Asscher also deserve greater attention to clarity because their open facets can make inclusions easier to see.

Fergus James Expert Insight

We wouldn't recommend paying for an extremely high colour or clarity grade simply because it looks better on the certificate.

The goal is a diamond that looks exceptional in the finished pendant.

Diamond Certification

Natural diamonds weighing 0.30ct+ in Fergus James jewellery normally include a GIA grading report.

Lab-grown diamonds weighing 0.30ct+ normally include an IGI grading report.

Individual reports aren't normally provided for every smaller diamond in tennis necklaces, pavé designs or other pieces containing numerous stones.

In those designs, diamond selection and matching become particularly important.

A jewellery report for the completed piece can also be arranged on request.

Choosing a
Coloured Gemstone

Gemstones

Choosing a
Coloured Gemstone

A pendant can feature a coloured gemstone instead of a colourless diamond or combine the two.

Fergus James options include:

Emerald · Ruby · Blue Sapphire · Aquamarine · Black Diamond · Yellow Diamond · Birthstones

Birthstones can add personal meaning, while emeralds, rubies and sapphires create stronger colour.

When multiple diamonds or gemstones appear in the same piece, we consider their size, colour, dimensions and overall appearance together so the finished design looks balanced.

Choosing
Your Setting

Setting

Choosing
Your Setting

Prong

Prong

Prongs secure the diamond while leaving much of it visible, creating the classic appearance associated with solitaire pendants.

Bezel

Bezel

A fine metal border surrounds the diamond, creating a clean contemporary appearance while providing additional protection around its edge.

Halo

Halo

Smaller diamonds surround the centre stone, increasing the pendant's overall visible size and adding additional sparkle.

Pavé

Pavé

Small diamonds can be incorporated into the pendant, bail or surrounding design for additional detail.

From Our Experience…

The setting should suit the diamond's shape, size and intended use, rather than being chosen simply according to the number of prongs or how little metal is visible.

Fergus James doesn't normally offer cluster pendants containing numerous very small settings where we believe the design creates an unnecessary risk of stone loss. Where appropriate, we'll recommend a more secure way of achieving a similar look.

Choosing the Right Chain

The chain should complement the pendant visually, but it also needs to be strong enough to support it securely.

A small solitaire generally works naturally with a finer chain. A larger or heavier pendant requires greater strength.

We consider:

Pendant weight · Diamond size · Chain thickness · Link style · Length · Clasp security · Frequency of wear

Fergus James Expert Insight

We won't use a finer chain simply because it looks more delicate if we don't believe it's strong enough for the pendant.

The pendant, chain and clasp need to function as one piece.

What Necklace Length
Should You Choose?

Chain

What Necklace Length
Should You Choose?

Necklace length determines where the pendant sits and can significantly change how the finished piece looks.

Length

Typical Position

16" / 40cm

Higher on the neck

17" / 43cm

Around the upper chest/collarbone

18" / 46cm

Classic pendant length, slightly lower

20" / 51cm

Lower on the chest

22–24" / 56–61cm

Longer necklace styling

These positions are approximate.

Neck circumference, height, body proportions and pendant size all affect where the necklace actually sits.

The standard Fergus James pendant chain and tennis necklace is approximately 17" / 43cm, while our diamond chokers are normally around 16" / 40cm.

Pendant chains can also incorporate adjustable loops for more than one wearing length.

From Our Experience…

If you're buying a necklace as a gift, measure a necklace the recipient already wears regularly.

It gives us a much more useful starting point than trying to estimate their ideal length from height alone.

Why Does a
Pendant Flip?

Aftercare

Why Does a
Pendant Flip?

Some pendants naturally move or occasionally turn while being worn.

This can be influenced by:

Pendant shape · Weight distribution · Chain attachment · Setting · Necklace length · Wearer's movement

Occasional movement doesn't necessarily mean something is wrong with the jewellery.

This can be influenced by:

Pendant shape · Weight distribution · Chain attachment · Setting · Necklace length · Wearer's movement

Occasional movement doesn't necessarily mean something is wrong with the jewellery.

Pendant chains can also incorporate adjustable loops for more than one wearing length.

Fergus James Expert Insight

If keeping a pendant facing forwards is particularly important, we'd consider balance and chain attachment during the design stage, rather than trying to solve the problem after the piece has been made.

The way a pendant is engineered can be just as important as how it looks from the front.

Clasps & Security

Fergus James diamond pendants normally use a lobster clasp for secure everyday fastening.

Tennis necklaces and diamond chokers use a main clasp supported by two additional safety latches.

If a clasp ever feels loose or doesn't close correctly, stop wearing the necklace and have it inspected.

Can a Pendant Be Moved to Another Chain?

Yes, depending on the design.

Fergus James pendants normally come complete with their chain, but we can create a detachable pendant hook allowing the pendant to be clipped onto another suitable chain.

The alternative chain must have the appropriate strength, thickness and fittings to support the pendant securely.

Our team can inspect an existing chain before advising whether it's suitable

Ready-to-Order
or Bespoke?

Aftercare

Ready-to-Order
or Bespoke?

Fergus James offers diamond pendants, tennis necklaces, personalised jewellery and gemstone designs, with selected bestselling pieces kept in stock at our Dubai showroom.

For something more individual, we can customise:

Diamond or gemstone · Shape · Size · Setting · Gold colour · Chain · Length · Personalisation · Overall design

Most custom pendants and necklaces take approximately 7–14 days to produce, depending on complexity and time of year.

Orders can often be fast-tracked for important dates.

How to Choose the Right Pendant or Necklace

When comparing your options, we'd focus on:

  1. Necklace or pendant style
  2. Diamond or gemstone
  3. Diamond shape and visible size
  4. Natural or lab-grown
  5. Setting
  6. Chain strength
  7. Necklace length
  8. Balance and comfort
  9. Clasp security
  10. Warranty and aftercare

Fergus James Expert Insight

A pendant shouldn't be considered as a diamond with a chain added afterwards.

The diamond, setting, chain, length and clasp should be designed to work together so the finished necklace looks balanced, sits properly and can be worn securely.

Frequently Asked Questions

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